The Costa del Sol
includes about 300km of the Spanish Mediterranean Coast belonging to the Provinces of Granada, Málaga and Cádiz. Recently, the Granada Province coastline was re- designated as the 'Costa Tropical'. It is protected from the northern winds by a mountain chain which sometimes reaches down to the edge of the sea. This privileged coast consists of a series of large beaches, sports harbours and fishing grounds.
The mild climate, scant rainfall and the sea breeze produce a semi tropical vegetation with frequent palm trees, cypresses. Oleander and hibiscus. The proximity of very different country side – mountains, valleys full of orchards and the sea- is undoubtedly one of the main attractions of this coast, which has all the main attractive features of the Mediterranean scenery and culture.
As it was easily accessible from the most important places of the ancient Mediterranean world, at an early stage the Costa del Sol was visited by Phoenicians, Greeks and Carthaginians. The Roman empire also moved its tentacles towards it and left considerable traces which the traveller can admire in the provincial and municipal museums, but it is the period under Islamic rule which left the deepest mark, not only with regard to the oriental atmosphere of many of the villages, but also the most traditional means of earning a living: the orchard crops, an unquestionable legacy of the wise lesson taught by their original Arab owners, and the crafts where the Islamic roots of the techniques and designs are always evident.
The popular music and the magnificent Muslim buildings, which the traveller must include on his visit at all costs, occupy a place of prime importance among the characteristics of Andalusian culture and consequently of the Costa del Sol. Christianity in these lands coincides with the Modern Age. Between the 16C and 18C the cities and towns were endowed with churches and palaces by then totally westernised, although occasionally it is possible to discern Arab traces in the Baroque forms of the less official art and architecture. There the traveller finds a long series of modest rural parish churches. Visiting them in the course of wandering through the small whitewashed streets in every village on the Costa del Sol is almost as obligatory as getting to know the halls, rooms and gardens of the Alhambra.
Apart from the villages with a rural air, today there are housing developments, yacht harbours, golf courses, centres of entertainment, night clubs and many other tourist attractions. Fortunately, all of them blend perfectly with the traditional, peaceful atmosphere enveloping towns and villages, miraculously and faithfully preserved in their original mould. However, a holiday on the beach with all the attractions it may have in this part of the Mediterranean Sea is not the only thing the Costa del Sol has to offer: by making short trips the traveller has the opportunity of getting to know the most genuine aspects of Andalusian cultureI In addition to the folklore provided in the tourist centres, it is also possible to reach the heart and soul of the popular celebrations. The Fiestas, Holy Week, Flamenco competitions and bull fights are probably the best recommendations for the travellers who are not satisfied with the first thing they come across. Tasting the wines of the region in charming wineries from other times and trying the pescadito (deep fried fish) prepared in accordance with the demanding rules of popular cooking are the temptations in the way of travellers who prefer the pleasant surprise of local cooking to the ever present "international cuisine".
 The Eastern Costa del Sol and Costa Tropical
This trip begins at the eastern end of the Granada coast, known as the Costa Tropical. Between that point and the city of Málaga, the traveller gets to know the varied countryside of an always rugged coast. On his way he comes across tourist centres and almost deserted coves, towns and villages with unmistakable Andalusian and Moorish profile as well as interesting sights. (Total length of the trip: 169 km).
The road along the first stretch of the coast at the foot of the La Contraviesa Sierra, which reaches into the Province of Granada, runs parallel to the shore and skirts the beaches and mountains spurs. Therefore it is sometimes slightly difficult to negotiate. La Rábita is a good point of departure: an ancient fishing village in the comforting shelter of a small fortress and surrounded by cultivated land. A little further on, after leaving behind a stretch of Rocky coast, the traveller reaches La Mamola, another seaside village with a large beach, Castell de Ferro (21 km from La Rabita) is another small place at the foot of a hill: there a watch tower is a reminder of the threat of piracy, the same as in many other places along the coast. From that point onwards the traveller enters the most tourist orientated sector on the Granada part of the Costa del Sol.
A 9 km cliff separates Castell de Ferro from Calahonda, a small bay bounded by rock formations. Torrenueva (at a distance of 6km) is another summer resort close to a lovely beach. From there it is 7km to Motril, a town with a harbour, surrounded by an extensive plain where tropical crops are grown. A visit of the town should include the 16C Collegiate Church and Sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza, which dates from the same period and was built on the ruins the castle, which, according to tradition, gave shelter to the mother of Boabdil, the last king of the Granada Nasrids. The beaches of Pariente, el Puerto and Las Azucenas make up the coastline at Motril and have attracted a lot of tourism. Salobreña lies only 7km away on the slopes of a hillock with an Arab castle at the top. The village has very steep whitewashed streets and must be included in a visit. The view from the old fortress reaches from the river valley of the Guadalfeo, covered with cane plantations, as far as Sierra Nevada. The old part of Salobreña is perfectly preserved and it is a good example of the Muslim villages in the ancient Kingdom of Granada. In a westerly direction the road passes through a rugged countryside of slopes covered with orchards.
The village of Almuñecar (17km) also lies in the shelter of a Muslim castle and is very interesting, too. Its most outstanding features are probably the winding streets of the old part, the Phoenician and Roman remains, especially the eye catching, well preserved aqueduct, and the beachesof San Cristobal, El Altillo, Puerta del Mar Velilla, El Tesorillo and others, which are ideal for the practice of water sports. Not very far away there are La Mona Point, an excellent observation platform overlooking the comforting shelter of a small fortress and surrounded by cultivated land. A little further on, after leaving behind a stretch of the Mediterranean, and la Herradura, another very recommended beach. The road finally enters the Province of Málaga. Maro is reached first. It is an old area of fisher mans dwellings and belongs to the neighbouring town of Nerja. This stretch of coast consists of coves and small pebble beaches. Shortly after leaving behind the town, on his right the traveller comes to a short turn off for the Caves of Nerja, a breathtaking natural stage of calcareous formations, where concerts are held. The prehistoric cave paintings from the Palaeolithic period are very interesting. Nerja (22 km from Almuñecar) occupies a really privileged place. With a huge plain full of orchards in the background, the town seems to cling to a rocky projection, where an Arab castle used to stand in other times and which is known today as the Bálcon de Europa (Balcony of Europe).
 The view from this observation platform includes the neighbouring beaches with the cluster of houses and their whitewashed facades in the background. Near the short avenue lined with palm trees, there is El Salvador Church, built in the 17C and 18C, which is a good example of a long series of rural parish churches with an unmistakable Andalusian air. Las Angustias Hermitage is another good Baroque building. A 6 km regional road leads from Nerja to Frigiliana, an intimate, whitewashed village which preserves a rural atmosphere. The oldest part has a layout dating from Muslim times, while the parish church – also 17C/18C – preserves a coffered ceiling of Mudéjar origin. Its wineries produce a much sought – after wine. By now the traveller has reached the region of La Axarquia, one of the most attractive along the Costa del Sol. Inland it consists of valleys full of orchards with a scattering of small Moorish villages which are reached by following winding local roads. The two of these villages – Archez and Salares – still preserve the minaret turned bell tower of the former mosque.
8km from Nerja along the coastal road, there is a 4km turn off for Torrox, which is well worth a visit: the village lies on a steep slope and consists of a lovely sequence of whitewashed houses and roofs. La Encarnación Church and the Hermitage of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves preserve their remarkable Mudéjar traces. Back on the coast, the watch towers and small fortresses scattered along the coast will remind the traveller of the threat of pirate incursions. After eight kilometres of beaches, there is the turn off for Algarrobo. On the way well preserved Phoenician burial places can be visited in the township of Trayamar. Also worthy of a visit are Santa Ana church at the very top of the village – and the Hermitage of San Sebastian in Algarrobo.
Torre del Mar is an extensive beach skirted by summer resort installations. From there Vélez – Málaga, the capital of La Axarquia and one of the most interesting places in the province, lies 5km inland. El Arrabal de San Sebastián with a medieval castle at the top is the oldest part. The more recent area dating from 16C and 17C has a long series of town palaces and aristocratic houses. The most outstanding sights in this ancient town, which played a decisive role in the conquest of the Kingdom of Granada, are San Juan Church, the Convents of San Francisco, Santa Clara and San José de la Trinidad, the Mudéjar patio (=inner court)of San Marcos Hospital and the palace used as the town hall today, apart from the Church of Santa María la Mayor. 28km from Vélez a turn – off of the coastal road leads to the small village Macharaviaya, where the funerary monuments of the powerful Gálvez family are found in the crypt of the Baroque church. The beaches of Benajarafe and El Rincon de la Victoria are traditional summer resorts. There, at sunset the traveller may enjoy the spectacle of el copo, a variety of fishing in shallow water. Nearby there are Pedregalejo and El Palo, the beaches of Málaga, the capital of the province. They are very crowded in the summer which used to belong to fishermen in other times.
The Western Costa del Sol
The visit of the western half of the Costa del Sol is the most representative sector: between Torremolinos and Marbella the journey passes through a real display of tourist attractions near beaches and yacht clubs. However, the visit, which begins in Málaga, must not omit many less known places, often still unchanged despite their proximity to more cosmopolitan and sophisticated places. (Total length of the trip: 213 km).
Málaga is a city with an attractive personality consisting of the most refined essence of Mediterranean traditions. It is no competition for other Andalusian capitals as regards sights – such as Granada, Seville and Córdoba-, but it does have a valuable series of buildings from each of the different periods of its history. A walk through the old part shows the visitor the different features of this friendly city. Beginning with the two Muslim fortresses- the Alcazaba and the castle on top of the hill Gibralfaro – and the nearby Roman theatre, the visit continues with the Cathedral, an excellent example of Renaissance and Baroque architecture.
 A stones throw away lies the Paseo del Parque and the 18C Alameda, which – together with El Marqués de Larios St – are the centre of Málaga. The next Parish Church of El Sagrario, next to the Cathedral, and the Churches of El Cristo de la salud, San Juan, Santiago, Los Mártires and the Sanctuary of la Victoria, which has an interesting crypt, are the most outstanding buildings apart from the Episcopal Palace. El Pasaje de Chinitas, La Merced and La Consitucion squares are other key places in Málaga. As far as Torremolinos – once a fishermans area of the capital – a busy motorway is used. About 8km from Málaga the Parador del Golf on the seashore has one of the best golf courses on the Costa del Sol. Torremolinos (12km from Málaga) is very near. The enormous concentration of recent buildings surrounds the former hamlet of La Carihuela, once a small seaside village, which was to turn into the summer paradise called Torremolinos today. In la Carihuela it is still possible to taste the pescadito (=deep fried fish) and the fino (a sherry) as in the past.
Apart from that the discotheques, night clubs, restaurants and other places of leisure practically occupy the whole extension of the multi – faceted tourist centre, which includes recreational activities and entertainment of every kind, from the most sophisticated to the most informal. The beaches of la Carihuela, El Bajondillo, Montemar and El Lido stretch as far as the mouth of the Guadalhorce. Almost without noticing, the traveller enters Benalmádena – Costa, a kind of natural extension of Torremolinos. There, however, the visitor should go in search of the old part of Benalmadéna inland, a white-washed, friendly village on the slope of a 2km beach.
A huge funfair provides entertainment of all kinds. Further along the road skirting the coast, Fuengirola (17km from Torremolinos) comes into view almost immediately. It stretches along a very long beach. From there a road leads to Mijas which is so picturesque that it has produced an excessive surge of excursions. A visit is nevertheless worthwhile. The setting is a prototype of rural Andalusia: the impeccably whitewashed little streets, the small squares perfectly suited to the village and the two modest Mudéjar – style churches. The observation platform in the upper part provides a magnificent view over a good part of the Málaga coast.
Back in Fuengirola, the road passes through housing developments and continues skirting the coast. On the left there is the old Castle of Sohail, built by Abd el – Rahman III in the 10C and rebuilt in the 18C. A little later the traveller reaches the boundary of Marbella (17km). High hedges isolating the villages and luxury housing developments appear on either side of the road. The town still preserves its Moorish layout and the small whitewashed facades around a pleasant tree – lined square. The most outstanding sights of this important seaside and agricultural town are the walls of the medieval castle, the 16C Casa del Corregidor (Town hall) on the main square, San Juan de Dios Hospital and the Parish Church of La Encarnación from the 16C, 17C and 18C, apart from the 16C Hermitages of Santo Cristo and the Baroque El Calvario. A slow walk through Marbella and along its beaches is a must for every visitor. The babel of languages and the string of attractions along the way turn the town into one of the most cosmopolitan and colourful places on the Costa del Sol. On the way out of the town, there is a modern mosque built by a Saudi sheik, which is proof of the presence of really exclusive neighbours.
From Marbella a good, though winding road leads into the Sierra Blanca as far as Ojen, a peaceful mountain village. The Parador lies 10km away from Ojen. It is the meeting point of hunting sportsmen in search of a rare species, the capra hispanica. A visit to Ojen should include the 16C/18C La Encarnacion Church with a good Mudéjar coffered ceiling.
Back on the coast, there is yet one more place on the left where the temporary Marbella society loves to meet: Puerto Banús. The same as other nearby housing developments, it was built in a style designed to be reminiscent of the old fishing harbours, where the most dazzling yachts as well as luxury restaurants and shops are found. San Pedro de Alcántara lies 10km from Marbella. It is an old seashore village where valuable Roman and palaeo – Christian remains are preserved. The excellent beach has attracted modern housing estates.
After another 15km, the traveller reaches Estepona, an important fishing village, which has managed to preserve a peaceful atmosphere next to the modern buildings of the Paseo Maritímo (promenade). The Baroque façade of Los Remedios Church, which stands out among the roofs and whitewashed houses, is charmingly attractive. A walk around the harbour is a standing invitation. Behind the village lies Bermeja Sierra, a part of the spurs of the Ronda mountains, with beautiful views. A visit to the Málaga coast cannot be considered complete without going to a certain village inland. Casares (25km from Estepona) is unquestionably one of the most attractive of the famous so – called white (whitewashed) villages of Andalusia. It clings to the slopes of a hill at the foot of a castle in ruins and commands a magnificent view. The most remarkable buildings are the parish church and San Sebastian Church (both from the 17C). The detour, 14km from the coastal road, is well worth the effort.
With Sabinillas beach and the small Castle of La Duquesa (18C) the journey through the Province of Málaga comes to a end. At this pint the road turns away from the coast and passes through more solitary countryside. A short detour is required to enter Cádiz part of the Costa del Sol. On the right there are the housing estates of Guadiaro, among them especially Punta Europa and Sotogrande. The key attractions of these summer resorts are a golf course and a long beach ideal for water sports.
 The mountain pass of El Higuerón leads to San Roque (10km), a small, orderly place founded in the 18c by the inhabitants of Gibraltar in full view of their place of origin. It deserves a leisurely visit to see Santa Maria la Coronada Church, the Palace of the Govenors and the whole of the old part in general. At a distance of about 5km, half way round the bay of Algeciras, there are the ruins of Carteya, an extraordinarily well preserved, first Phoenician and later Roman, colony.
There is an industrial centre between San Roque and La Linea de la Concepcion. La linea is at the foot of the rock of Gibraltar is yet another of the austere, rectilinear places with good beaches along the coast of Cádiz. Skirting the bay, the traveller reaches Algeciras, an important port and obligatory meeting point for passengers to Ceuta and Tangier. It is recommended to visit Alta Square in Algeciras: the palm trees, the ceramic fountain in the centre as well as the Baroque facades of San Isidro Chapel and the parish church lend the square a vague colonial air, which the traveller will come across again in other places in this province. Other parts to be visited are the promenade and the beaches of the bay.
There are only 22km left for the traveller to reach Punta Tarifa on the border of the Costa de la Luz ( Coast of the Light) and the only gateway to the Mediterranean Sea. The road lined with cork oaks, which grow on rugged slopes of the cape, passes through two small harbours. Upon arrival, the Arab walls point the way towards the seaside area and the magnificent observation platform overlooking the African coast. The most outstanding sights in this ancient city are the castle of Guzmán el Bueno (10C) and the Churches of San Mateo (16C), san Francisco (16C/18/C) and Santa Maria.
Inland itineraries
The lazy summer holidays on the beaches of the Costa del Sol are no excuse for passing up the opportunity of getting to the heart of the lands further inland. There, the traveller will be surprised to find untouched villages and a culture deeply rooted in tradition.
In the following, there are suggestions for excursions in the interest of which lies as much in the sights as in the scenery. If not described otherwise, the roads are generally in good condition and the drive is therefore comfortable. In some cases – such as the excursion to Granada, the Sierra Nevada and Las Alpujarras - more than a day is needed to cover every attraction along the itinerary.
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